INTRODUCING my ultra athletic tour guide when I went to 金坑 (Jinkeng) to visit 龙脊 (Longji) a few weeks ago. Before eating lunch at her family’s restaurant, she took us from the bottom of the terraces all the way to the top in less than 45 minutes. On the way, she explained to us the customs of her minority clan, Yaozu, including sartorial traditions, such different skirt colors for single or married women. The women like to grow their hair out almost to their ankles and then tie it all up in a bun on top of their forehead each day, decorating it with an embroidered handkerchief. Putting American emo scenesters to shame, my guide wore heavy silver earrings that stretched her earlobes all out of proportion, like dumpling dough. How appetizing.
Besides trying to avoid looking at her ears, we were led on an exhausting yet knowledgeable trip as we trekked with her all the way up 1000 meters above sea level to the first and second “summits” of the Jinkeng (literally, Golden Pit) and listened to her mini-history lesson on the Yaozu people and their customs. I learned that she makes this steep hike daily during the summer time, when temperatures reach around 40 degrees Celsius in the valley. As we maneuvered our way on the precarious path constructed from rocks that jutted out in all sorts of inconvenient directions, occasionally, a farmer leading his ox or horse along would joust us for the right of way. “Rang kai yi xia!” he’d warn us with a slap of the bamboo rod he carried with him on one hand while he steered his four-legged companion with the other. “Step aside a little!” Each time, we sidled up against the mountain wall, letting the animal pass first, which made me doubt my worth as a commodity just a little. Hmm… maybe I’m not as priceless as I thought.
Up on the peaks, wooden hostels are situated next to homes of the Yao. Wayfaring travelers can rest their weary legs and stay the night for a mere 50 RMB, and the next morning, they can watch the sunrise from their windows as dawn breaks over the terraces, which are constructed by the village people in order to maximize land area for the agriculture on which they survive. After the trekker sweats more than a normal person ever should when he makes it to the top, he sees a sight that makes his breath short with fatigue, his legs crumble with vertigo, and his eyes wide with incredulousness.
If some of the tourists plan to stay the night on one of the peaks, she and other women in the village will carry their suitcases from the bottom up—on their backs. Even though this is a way for the Yaozu to conduct business and make a living of sorts, it pains me to see these dark, petite women shoulder things equal to their weight up a height equal to that of multiple skyscrapers. While hikers pay them to do this, I am curious as to what kind of people would be willing to dole out the money to witness this kind of manual labor.
Halfway down the trails as we were descending the mountain, it suddenly hit me that we didn’t even ask for the guide’s name. After all, she was a stranger in a strange place, and you don’t just ask for people’s names that you don’t know. But I should attribute all those stories to… who now? She’ll be a legend in my mind. Just a nameless one.
We returned to the city in a small rotund van (“bread car,” transliterally) popular in China for its versatility and good gas mileage (read: unsafe and cheap). More than one person made the trip on the verge of carsickness due to the driver’s less than steady driving prowess. The day after, the local news reported that the mountain road from Longsheng, the city most closely associated with the terrace landscape, and He Ping village had been blocked off by mud slides. Within the course of one rainy day, the narrow and winding roads up toward the village area became slippery and dangerous. Avalanches of dirt came crashing down within 24 hours after we left. Any vehicles traveling on the way to Longji would be swept off the path down into the steep ravines below. Was it a fortunate coincidence? Was it the bracelet I always wear for good fortune? Oh, to think about things that don’t have answers.
Then there are the people who say that whenever someone from the mountain village makes it to the city, he will never want to return to his roots nestled in nature’s layered cake after comparing his previous life to his current one. And true, after a close encounter with this different world, the peasant life in He Ping and the surrounding area is demanding, isolated, and predictable. Long days in the field turn the men’s skin permanently dark and rough, and people well into their 60s and 70s use canes to help them navigate the stoney slopes as they move back and forth between their homes and the fields. But whenever a villager leaves, never to return, he probably loses a part of the idyll that he won’t find again anywhere else. He will no longer breathe the cool and gentle mountain air. What’s worse, if he’s not strong enough, urban greed may rob him of what was his previously simple soul. So when he sleeps, I like to think that behind his closed eyes, he’s dreaming of a pink sunrise inching over the first peak.